Getting flawless colour isn’t as hard as you think. Here are a few tips to help your hair colour look perfect
Timing really is everything when it comes to achieving a balanced, cohesive colour result.
Hair has different porosity at different sections. The more porous hair is, the faster it will absorb colour and the darker your colour result will be.
Think of your hair in three sections; Roots (new growth hair), Mid-lengths, and Ends. The least porous part of your hair is your new growth at your roots. Your mid lengths have increased porosity, and your ends will be the most porous part of your hair.
Roots: This is the newest, freshest hair so it takes a bit more time for the colour to perform when colouring hair roots. Always begin your colour application at your roots, and allow additional processing time to allow the colour to fully absorb into your roots, which are naturally the least colour absorbent section of your hair.
Mid-lengths: This hair is a little more porous, it has had time to be exposed to natural and unnatural elements such as sun exposure, colouring, highlighting, and heat styling. Increased porosity means faster colour absorption, so your mid-lengths need less time to process the colour.
Ends: The ends of our hair have been through the most and are the most porous section of your hair. Your ends probably feel the driest and they might be prone to split ends or frizz. They will also rapidly over-absorb colour so you definitely do not need to leave the colour on your ends for as long as your roots.
Consider your hair as having three different absorption capabilities in each of the three different sections – roots, mid-lengths and ends.
Colour will process faster at the ends, and colour processing will slow moving up towards the roots. If you apply colour to the full length of your hair all at the same time, you may have a darker, duller colour result at your ends where the colour has processed faster.
Adjust your colour application to allow for the increasing porosity towards the ends of your hair. Give your new growth hair the most time to absorb colour – give it at least a 20 minute head start – after that, gradually comb colour down through hair adding more colour to you mid-lengths, then finally on to the ends.
When doing a root touch up, total saturation is really important. Part your hair into 4 sections and apply colour patiently and methodically, really massaging the colour into the new growth hair so that you don’t miss any areas.
Know your limitations when going lighter. Say no to hot roots.
“Hot roots” is what you may get when you try to colour your already-dyed hair a lighter colour and the roots end up looking noticeably warmer than the rest of your hair.
Hot roots happen when the hair closest to the scalp lifts lighter and faster than the rest of the hair due to the heat coming off your scalp. This is also a result of putting a lighter shade on it and through the lightening process exposing natural warmth. Remember my friends “colour can not lift colour,” so if you have any type of dye on your hair a lighter colour will not be able to make your hair lighter.
Comb it down to escape the band.
When you colour over hair that has been previously coloured the hair colour overlaps, creating a darker band where the new colour is touching the previous colour. You will usually see this band around your crown. Escape this by applying colour just to roots and feathering down with a comb.
Did you know that you don’t need to colour all your hair every time that you colour?
We talked earlier about how the different parts of hair absorb colour at a different rate due to the porosity of the hair. When there is existing hair colour in your hair, applying colour over and over again leads to build-up on the lower portion of your hair. The result is darker ends than roots.
Instead of colouring your whole head every time, just touch up your new growth. If you are colouring frequently to cover greys, you may only need to add colour to your lengths and ends for ten minutes once every 2-3 months. Until, of course, you feel like you either want to change your whole colour, or your overall head of hair needs a refresh.